In Highland Park, there is no “that side of town” or “this side of town.” Close to Eagle Rock and ten minutes north of Downtown, much of the neighborhood’s vibe has to do with a balance of historical values and modern sensibilities; a place where taco trucks, niche bookstores, mom ‘n pop shops and craft beer snobs somehow live amicably like a squad from a 90s sitcom. At its core, Highland Park has become a microcosmic slice of LA, a humble place that still feels like a community.
If you hit the neighborhood’s two main streets, York and Figueroa, you’ll notice businesses both new and old living happily side by side, making it tough to believe that this was once a tumultuous, gang-afflicted landscape. The area has since shaped up and found its own groove—quite possibly the most unique and cutting edge hood in LA.
Individuality is what flourishes here. Whether it’s a guitar shop in front of a record store or great coffee steps away from a bookstore that’s not Barnes and Noble, there is something for everyone in Highland Park. Check any preconceived notions you have about East LA and offer a smile when you share a moment with a stranger. The everybody-knows-your-name vibe is what Highland Park is all about, so don’t taint it with your Silver Lake snobbery.
Eat
Good Girl Dinette
Fire up your taste buds for a slightly modern take on Vietnamese cooking. If you’re looking for tantalizing spices that jolt your taste buds out of the boredom of IPAs and burgers, this is the spot. Minced cilantro, cracked fresh chilies, garlic and tangy spices will show up on dishes like fried crab, squid, caramelized ginger chicken wings and of course, pho. While most culture’s soul food comes with the price tag of deliriously waking up hours after the meal wondering what happened, this Vietnamese version is easier on the body, but still soul-warming. Good Girl Dinette manages to satisfy those hearty cravings without making you feel like you went on weed-fueled bender.
New spot for classic Vietnamese. Image courtesy of Good Girl Dinette
Folliero's
Bring your girlfriend here. Bring your husband here. Bring your first date here. Bring your Uncle Stu here. Let me preface why this place continues to bring everyone together … tradition. Since 1968, Folliero’s has been serving consistent Italian dishes, the staples of good eating (think lasagna, spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli, chicken parm, etc.). It’s a family spot, a date spot and a pick up on the way home from work spot. With prices that leave your wallet very happy, Folliero’s is a neighborhood restaurant that makes you feel like a local.
'Hood staple since 1968.
Images courtesy of Folliero's
La Abeja
Do you remember that friend’s mom from middle school that always made sure you had something to eat when you came over? This is La Abeja. A mom and pop (literally) run restaurant serving the most delicious homemade Mexican food your taste buds will encounter. The decor is part tiendecita, part restaurant and feels as though you are walking into your friend’s mom’s kitchen.
Old-school Mexican joint, La Abeja
Images courtesy of La Abeja
Antigua Bread
Although this has been here almost a decade, it’s easy to miss this typical Guatemalan joint that excels in the breakfast department. Order eggs any way you like with a healthy serving of plantains, rich black beans and a dollop of fresh crema that makes everything extra delicious. Top it off with a cup of earthy coffee and you’ve got the energy to take on the day. Think of Antigua as a smaller, Guatemalan version of Porto’s Bakery.
Cafe Birdie (coming soon)
By the end of summer, Highland Park will be home to a host of new places to eat, sip and play. Add this one more to the list. Aimed to be the first official neighborhood bistro, Birdie (by the same guys behind Horse Thief) will feature a strong seafood presence on their menu and spacious 150 seating. Given the location will be smack dab in the middle of Figueroa (next to Civil Coffee and across the street from ETA), it’s poised to become a new neighborhood hot spot.
Taco Stand on Figueroa
Melt in your mouth tacos with all the usual contenders for meats. Still a small operation, these guys grew quickly in just a few months and if you’re lucky enough to be driving on Figueroa after 7 p.m. on most days, do your best to scout out fluorescent light bulbs—the Taco Stand’s “Open for Business” beacon. You’ll also see the gathering of neighbors on the sidewalk, but if you also happen to miss that, the fragrance of lime zest, braised meats and handmade tortillas will coerce you into pulling over. Be warned, if it’s a weekend, there’s going to be a line and if a Spanish language barrier gives you anxiety, a superiority complex or the realization that your participation in a housing project in Central America only taught you how to make a situation worse, bring a Spanish-speaking friend.
It's always taco time on Figueroa. Image courtesy of Bennett Cordon
Play
La Cuevita
First thing’s first, there is no assortment of craft beers available here, so apologies to our bearded brew lovers. This is a tequila and mezcal bar. If you’ve never had a good experience with agave, it was probably because you had one too many shots of it after a mix of poorly chosen liquors. Try the mezcal mule, Moscow’s Mexican brother, for starters. It carries the familiarity of a smoky shot of whiskey, but with a bit more spice. Step in the back of the bar to enjoy the patio hangout combo that is the perfect cantina style setting for your evening. Need to smoke a cigarette while enjoying your drink? Go for it. This isn’t the west side, no one will yell at you.
La Cuevita, for all your mezcal needs.
Images courtesy of La Cuevita / Timothy Norris.
The Hermosillo
If you were to judge The Hermosillo by its cover, then upon entering you’d expect to see cowboys hanging by the bar. Instead, you’ll find a mellow spot with just enough bustle for a drink with an old friend that won’t feel awkward. Like most bars off York, The Hermosillo is the kind of place you pop in and out of. Expect a staff that greets you like you’ve been in the neighborhood for a while, even if you’re just popping your Highland Park cherry. Fun fact: You’ll notice beer glasses with a cool HPB logo. This is their small backhouse microbrewery, which features a great selection of craft beers. Aforementioned bearded craft beer drinkers … come here instead.
Image courtesy of The Hermosillo, image by Timothy Norris
Highland Park Bowl
Preservation of culture … and fun. This is what Highland Park is about. Dating back to 1927 Prohibition era, the space now occupied by the gorgeous Highland Park Bowl has always been a bowling alley—Mr. T’s Bowl, in fact—but what this renovation did was repurpose, preserve and obsesses over every historical detail. From the wood, old bowling pins, fixtures and even old bowling pennants, the nostalgia and nod to another time is perfectly captured. This is yesteryear with modern blood featuring craft cocktails, live jazz/burlesque and mean pizza. Now, go bowl a turkey.
The Greyhound and ETA
We’re going to kill two birds with this one. Owners of The Greyhound, a delicious gastro-pub that earned its love with its juicy burgers and craft beers, launched their second Figueroa strip venture end of April 2016. ETA, a slick cocktail lounge designed by same masterminds who tricked out Now Boarding, features creative cocktails and wines by the glass.
Explore
Permanent Records
Fuzz out, freak out and rock out with Permanent Records' amazing selection of rock, soul, blues, country and everything in between. Known for their selection of rare rock tunes this place is a staple of Highland Park. Heavily involved with happenings around town, including putting on shows in local bars, in-house and off premise, there’s probably a good chance if you saw an awesome rock band play somewhere in the area, it was a Permanent Records affiliated event.
Permanent Records. Image courtesy of Nathan Solis
Image courtesy of Permanent Records
The Bearded Beagle
Looks can be deceiving. Operating as a vintage clothing store that heralds a highly curated selection of vintage wear, The Bearded Beagle doubles up as a music venue. Once transformed, a normal shopping experience is enhanced with live bands and DJs playing whatever the theme is (or isn’t) for the evening. Owned by seasoned retail partners, the goal was to open up a shop that was sustainable, affordable and fun. This shop has come a long way since its Etsy store inception back in 2012. With two more locations in Los Angeles, The Bearded Beagle carries a variety of clothing, locally handmade items, home décor and a small selection of furniture.
The Pop-Hop Books & Print
Known for an eclectic collection of books and intimate book readings, the Pop-Hop book shop is a great place to pick your brain and recalibrate yourself. Get acquainted with a cult classic, a rare zine or a novelty art book that will keep you engaged and inquisitive. If you don’t consider yourself an avid reader, that’s okay, too. The shop carries small press items and handcrafted novelties that might hook you into getting reacquainted with the literary pastime. Situated in the heart of Highland Park, Pop-Hop’s location adds a dash of intellectual flair to the already buzzing York Blvd.
Pop-Hop is your one stop book and gift shop. Images courtesy of On the Grid
Mount Analog
Digging through music is considered a form of therapy for many. Mount Analog excels at curating a fine selection of niche genres while incorporating a modern touch of refined organization. Seriously, this space gets massive points alone for the presentation of their store. Stop in and check out one of their two listening nooks where you can quietly check out a spectrum of electronic music genres that waver from roof party house music to the most abrasive techno. If rare literature and film are your things, you’ll find something worth checking out as well.
Studio Avenue 50
Studio Avenue 50 is an art group known for their Chicano and Latino culture. Bridging cultural understanding through artistic expressions, they aim to connect artists and community by upholding the idea that art and people should communicate with each other. Since its founding in 2000, Avenue 50 has grown into a platform for exceptional, up-and-coming local artists and poets. With over 250 exhibits under their belt, Studio Avenue 50 is an excellent way to participate in a dialogue of a quickly changing Los Angeles. Check out their monthly art openings to learn more and get to know something good.
Image courtesy of Nathan Solis
Stay
AirBnB: Highland Park Guest Studio
Nestled in a hill near Highland Park is this adorable guest studio that accomdates two. The loft has a separate entrance and a fun, artistic vibe. Enjoy your own mini-kitchen, rooftop garden and big bathroom—all within walking distance to the record stores, eats and bars that the neighborhood has to offer.
Book HERE.
How about a hammock?
AirBnB: Got Chickens?
At this "whimsical guest house" in Highland Park, sleep well knowing that gaggle of chickens outside will protect you. The yard was designed for a TV show, so yes, you can stay here and tell your friends you stayed on a TV set a mere block away from the coolest street in LA. Oh, and there's a nice outdoor bar set up, too.
Book HERE.
This cozy yard in Highland Park could be yours for a night or four.
Bennett Cordon is a culture digger from Los Angeles in constant orbit seeking out new distances and trajectories. Are you new here? Let him show you around. He's made of the city. Follow him on Instagram @futurememoir and Twitter @bennettcordon.