Quit monopolizing the spotlight, Hollywood. There’s a leafy village three miles east of you that has nurtured some of Tinseltown’s best talents and tales for well over a century.
Those cringe-tastic elephants at Hollywood & Highland? They’re a recreation of the mammoth mammals that sat for 20 years on the set of D.W. Griffith’s Intolerance in Los Feliz. A wee DiCaprio once dreamed of golden statuettes tucked in bed where the Los Feliz library now stands. Ever wonder why there’s a mural of him on Russell Ave? Frank Lloyd Wright built both the Ennis and Hollyhock House here. Local magnate Griffith J. Griffith bequeathed LA with Griffith Park, The Greek Theatre and The Griffith Observatory, all located in Los Feliz’ vicinity. (Don’t get too hyped on Colonel Griffith—he shot his wife in the face.) But the crème de la crème? Everyone’s favorite mouse was born right here—sketched in the garage of Walt Disney’s uncle’s place on Kingswell Avenue. Hey Mickey, you’re so fine!
At the foothill of Griffith Park, LA’s biggest and best, Los Feliz hums with nature and creativity. It’s a place where vintage-aged sculptors drink whiskey with vintage-clad actors; where you can write your screenplay in a cafe next to a Duplass brother or confuse the coyote in the driveway as your neighbor’s dog. A touch bougier than Silver Lake, Los Felicians are an eclectic mix of upscale hipsters, young families and struggling artists, all of whom are reflected in the mix of trendy restaurants, favorite old dives and family-friendly wine spots. But all can agree it hasn’t been a proper a night out if you didn’t wind up in the depths of The Drawing Room for a 6 a.m. shot.
Los Feliz is all fun and games until you try to find its politically correct pronunciation. Most Angelenos find the proper Spanish Los Fe-LEASE a bit pretentious over an American Los FEEL-uss, but the choice is yours—and a hot topic of contention at that. Ah ... must be time to grab that whiskey shot.
Here’s where to find your happy place in the neighborhood:
EAT
Messhall Kitchen
Part tavern, part upscale whiskey saloon, part summer camp cafeteria, Messhall is a roomy place for serious cocktails, California craft-beers and innovative comfort food all of which can be enjoyed on an outdoor patio. There’s an epic whiskey selection (with an 18-year-old Thomas Handy Rye) and weekly events like legendary $1 Oyster Tuesday. You’re not living if you don’t elect to “Roll the Dice” and let the bartender pick your drink. Perhaps she’ll mix you up the killer Mint Julep. Hungry? Try the Short Rib Poutine, or if you’re brunching, go for the Bananas Foster French Toast.
Figaro Bistrot
With its French antiques, rustic chandeliers and legit patisserie, Figaro will have you humming La Marseillaise as you bite into your garlic butter escargot. Madonna once draped herself on these seats for Louis Vuitton and you may find yourself buttering croissants with local Gary Oldman. There’s a cozy enclave to nestle with your bowl-sized café au lait, an airy bistrot to sip your Kir Royale or watch the sun go down on the highly coveted patio. Happy Hour—one of LA’s best—runs 4-7 p.m. daily. Think $6 beef carpaccio and $5 champagne.
Sweet potato biscuit with pulled pork. Image courtesy of @messhallkitchen
Figaro Bistrot. Image courtesy of @listentotrace
Tacos Tu Madre
The brand new kid on the block. This Westwood staple has ventured east to make its mark on Vermont Blvd with a bright Dia de los Muertos themed mural and some contenders in the taco department. Their menu features the expected chicken, asada and carnitas, but also more upscale fusion items like lamb birria with coconut cream sauce, duck mole and vegan Banh Mi. Even the plain ol’ bean and cheese is to die for. You can choose a taco, burrito or bowl with tacos averaging $2 - $3.75—perfect for a cheap bite before a $6.50 movie (before 5 p.m.) next door at the Los Feliz 3 movie theatre.
Little Dom's
A touch of New York charm and a lotta neighborhood hominess, Little Dom’s has long been a haven for hipsters and celebrities alike. Jon Hamm even has a booth with his name on it. Specializing in ‘refreshed Italian-American’ fare, don’t be surprised to find rare items on the menu, like Mustard Green Lasagnette with alligator. Equally loved is the vintage wooden bar that’s seen many a romance blossom along its glossy surface. Check out their Monday Supper: a 3-course meal for $18, $3 Papst and $18 bottles of specific red and white wine. It’s a steal.
Ahi tuna burrito at Tacos Tu Madre. Image courtesy of @tacostumadre
Little Dom's Monday Night Supper. Image courtesy of @littledomsla
HomeState
Breakfast heaven! You’ll want to get here early or order take-out ahead on their app because HomeState is firing brisket on all cylinders and the neighbors can’t get enough of the Austin-inspired Tex-Mex. There’s a lengthy breakfast taco menu, brisket sandwiches, migas and Frito pies served in the bag. Wash it all down with Austin’s own Cuvée Coffee.
Breakfast tacos at HomeState. Image courtesy of @homestate
The Alcove Café & Bakery / Big Bar
The weekend swarms at The Alcove should attest to the continued popularity of this hip cafe. What’s all the hype about? The palatial-sized patio, of course. The bakery’s decadent cakes are impressive, but the menu includes brunch till 5 p.m. Yes, I’d like an order of Maryland Crab Cake Benedict at 4:30. Inside the cafe you’ll also find Big Bar, its titling a self-aware jab at the realistically tiny cocktail bar, particularly romantic after the main cafe closes. Big Bar just won Best Bar Team at Time Out's 2016 Bar Awards but the locals already knew they had some of the city’s best (ask for bar manager Cari Hah when vibing an agave-based spirit—she’s a ninja master of all things tequila/mezcal). To top it off, the summer movie program on the patio’s 17 ft. screen just kicked off as well.
Churro Borough
Another new face on the block is Churro Borough, serving up small batch handmade ice cream, paletas (Mexican popsicles), cold brew, milkshakes and of course, churros. The pièce de résistance here is the hot and crunchy churro ice cream sandwich. Choose your dreamy center from flavors like Spicy Hot Chocolate, Horchata Sherbert or Brown Butter Cookie Sorbet. Not in a churro mood? (What’s wrong with you?) Check out the Spicy Mango Paleta.
Spinach salad with applewood smoked bacon at the Alcove. Image courtesy of @bobdocland
Fred 62
This 24-hour all-American diner has been a Los Feliz staple for nineteen years, because nothing soaks up all those Dresden martinis like a serve of Mac ‘n Cheese balls at 2am. At Fred’s, you can sidle up next to the 60s-era soda fountain and drink icy cold milkshakes whilst munching your Bearded Mr. Frenchy (corn flake–crusted French toast), or get all romantic with your boo in one of the retro bench-seat booths. While honoring classic diner food, Fred also has a fantastic range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free fare. They also offer a Pot Pie of the day and a kid-friendly menu.
Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams
In 2002, Jeni Britton Bauer started churning her epic ice cream in Ohio and quickly had The New York Times screaming, “worth the drive to Ohio!” We got extremely lucky as her Los Feliz shop is the only California outpost. Made from grass-pastured dairy and non-synthetic flavors, it is rumored that Jeni kicked off the artisan ice cream movement. At the very least, she’s a James Beard Award-winning author! As summer approaches, check out flavors like Key Lime Buttermilk frozen yogurt, Riesling Poached Pear sorbet and Birch & (chunky) Marshmallows.
Mac n’ Cheese balls at Fred 62. Image courtesy of @fred62la
Riesling Poached Pear Sorbet. Image courtesy of @jenisicecreams
McCall's Meat & Fish Co.
A gourmet neighborhood market for your responsibly-farmed, non-antibiotic, zero-growth hormone, humane-husbandry piece of mind. This is the kind of local butcher that you grew up with as a kid, plus McCall’s prides themselves on helpful cooking tips. They’ve also added a gourmet bakery on site for crunchy baguettes and homemade granola.
Bru Coffeebar
Any cafe with this many creatives tapping away on any given day is instant hip-dom. But Bru is more than just another cool, third-wave coffee concept. They’ve a real investment in supporting independent coffee farmers and are one of the few local cafes serving single-origin Ritual Coffee out of San Francisco. They also prepare coffee using the slow and steady ‘pour-over’ method of Japanese tradition - which currently has coffee aficionados all over the nation writhing in ecstasy. The tea here is carefully sourced from such places as Citizine’s own favorite, Art of Tea.
McCall's Meat & Fish Co. Image courtesy of @mccallsmeatandfishco
Pour-over coffee at Bru. Image courtesy of @mrs_kerbel
Home Restaurant
An Eastside fave where locals and their dogs have been coming since 1997 to get their three hearty meals a day. Start at brunch with mimosas and Huevos Benedictos, follow up with a Turkey Ruben and Blackened Ahi Tuna Salad for lunch and stay around for Tequila Lime chicken pasta for dinner. Delish vegetarian and vegan choices and Happy Hour rocks out from 3-7 p.m, Monday-Friday. Check out the large and limey micheladas! The Home-y’s have also opened up a cafe next door, H Coffee House, for all your post-meal caffeine needs.
Home - one of LA's most dog-friendly cafes. Image courtesy of @homerestaurantla
PLAY
The Dresden Room
An iconic fixture since 1954, you’ll be transported to a golden yesteryear with low-light chandeliers, retro furnishings and vintage bartenders. It may have gained its fame in cult classic Swingers, but the wall of autographed pictures from friends like Frank Sinatra prove it didn’t need the Hollywood boost. You can get a reasonably priced $7 martini while you await The Dresden’s most famous jazz act: Marty and Elayne, the sequined-jumpsuited couple who have played five nights a week for thirty-five years and counting. They host open mic every Tuesday starting at 9 p.m. Take your out of towners here for a time-warp of a good time.
The Bigfoot Lodge
A kitschy forest cabin mated with an Eastside-rock dive bar, Bigfoot is the first love child of 1933 Group’s creative family (Sassafras, Thirsty Crow, Highland Park Bowl, etc). Truly a local’s bar, it offers wicked cocktails and a constant rotation of craft beer. If you’re feeling campy, try the Cabin Fever with cream-tequila, rum, fernet-branca and a toasted marshmallow. Bigfoot puts on Action Trivia every Wednesday night hosted by the author of this here handy guide, Bingo night is second Tuesday of the month, and the last Tuesday of each month is Pinewood Derby Racing (yes, just like Boy Scouts with homemade wooden cars on a mini racing track). Bigfoot has also become a hub for the Eastside's rockin' music scene thanks to bar manager and musician Brandon Burkart. You should also solicit him for an old-fashioned done right.
True Violet Band playing The Dresden. Image courtesy of @truevioletband
The Bigfoot Lodge, with Brandon. Image courtesy of @1933group
Barnsdall Art Park wine tastings. Image courtesy of @melissahunter
Barnsdall Art Park
Nestled on an obscured hill at the intersection of Hollywood and Vermont, Barnsdall is literally a hidden gem. Here, you’ll find stunning vistas, an art gallery, a 299-seat theatre and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House – which you can tour for $7. But it really hits its prime on summery Friday evenings when Silver Lake Wine host sunset tastings with live DJs and food trucks. $30 will get you four glasses of wine and an engraved glass. Not too shabby. Plus, it’s kid friendly for all you hip moms and dads out there. Don’t forget a picnic blanket. This summer’s festivities kick off June 3. For the wine tastings, book online at least a week in advance HERE.
Skylight Books
In this age of bookstore obliteration, Skylight stands tall and proudly offers a solid mix of the classic, the what’s-hot-right-now and an incredible collection of zines. Co-owned by Transparent actor Jeffrey Tambor, Skylight is also a community hub for readings, signings and book clubs. Pop in here for literary-themed t-shirts, retro postcards and to solve the crap-I-forgot-to-buy-a-birthday-card dilemma.
For more mom ‘n pop book shops in LA, check out author Amelia Gray’s LA bookstore hit list.
Tiki-Ti
This 55-year-old family-owned, size-of-your-bedroom tiki bar is jam-packed with kitsch Hawaiian décor and tropical drink fans alike. Think of it as your East LA beach escape. Can’t decide from the 94 classic tiki cocktails offer? Greg Bansuelo, the bar’s first non-family-employee, can help or spin the Tiki-Ti wheel and let the Polynesian gods decide. But be warned, if you order the Uga-Booga you’ll have to join the “ooga booga” chant. Tiki-Ti is seriously tiny (12 barstools and a few tables) so get there early, like when it opens at 4 p.m. FYI, they’re open Wednesday through Saturday and it’s cash only—ATM on site.
Skylight Books. Image courtesy of @skylightbooks
Tiki-Ti bar with Greg. Image courtesy of @ahfair
Co-Op 28
Buy local! A boutique market, Co-Op 28 highlights over 150 local designers and their handmade clothing, artwork, jewellery, antiques, and even couches named after Los Feliz icons like The Dresden, all at reasonable prices. And it’s only getting better with Bukowski's Los Feliz, a hip new dive bar named for one of LA’s favorite sons, set to open in the back soon. Follow their Facebook page to stay in the know.
Lou Wine Shop & Tastings
Lou Wines is the newest venture for Lou Amdur of famed Lou (his former restaurant on Vine that’s now closed). A neighborhood wine shop tucked into a strip mall, the new Lou doesn’t just sell wine, but loves to educate on it too. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, you can pop in for some informative tastings with either a visiting winemaker or one of their own specialists for only $10.
Co-Op 28. Image courtesy of @coop28handmade
Lou Wine Shop. Image courtesy of @louwineshop
La Luz De Jesus Gallery
Established in 2002 by Billy Shire (dubbed the “Peggy Guggenheim of Lowbrow”), La Luz’s mission is to make underground artists and counterculture accessible to the general public. The gallery, located inside the Soap Plant & Wacko gift show, presents a new exhibit each month with an opening reception on the first Friday that DETAILS Magazine calls “the biggest and best party in Los Angeles.” On your way to or from one of the openings, allow ample time to peruse the store’s eclectic collection of books and curiosities (i.e. bacon lip balm, Star Trek flask, brief underwear gloves).
SquaresVille
Some of the best vintage clothing on the Eastside, all hand-picked by SquaresVille’s quirky fashionistas. A buy-sell-trade store with unique, unusual, classic and retro fashion and accessories. My own ‘80s-prom-queen-massacre’ success story of Halloween 2010 is a testament to this store for last minute fashion emergencies. Best window display in town.
Billy Shire at La Luz. Image courtesy of @laluzdejesus
Squaresville. Image courtesy of @squaresvillevintagela
Ye Rustic Inn
Oh ye Rustic—responsible for some of the mightiest hangovers this side of Hollywood since 1971. Dark and cozy, you’ll forget you’ve been throwing back beers and whisky shots for six hours. The very definition of a neighborhood dive bar with everything you need it to be: legendary late-night buffalo wings, old school jukebox, tv sports and that oh so moody make-out lighting. Happy Hour is 4 -7 p.m. Monday - Thursday with Bingo 9 - 11 p.m. every Wednesday.
The Study
An off-shoot of the popular 1739 Public House sports bar next door, The Study is in fact a reversal of sorts. A low-lit, quiet, book-embellished cocktail lounge that screens old Hollywood films on the back wall. There’s a solid cocktail list, some tasty bites and even a collection of board games. So nab a booth, order a Sazerac and truffle mushroom pizza and get competitive on that Tinder date.
The Study. Image courtesy of @thestudy_losfeliz
Y Que Trading Post
Super quirky store for tote bags, used books, vinyls, random $5 novelty gifts and their very popular ‘ironic- locality’ tees. Yours truly owns the Los Feliz skunk tee (alonside a new Viva La Revolucion Bernie Sanders number). But there’s also an Echo Park ‘knuckle duster’ or a Silver Lake ‘swimmer’ if you’re looking to represent your own hood. The number one place to go if you need a Los Feliz souvenir.
Y Que Trading Post. Image courtesy of @terrorbeak
Los Feliz tees. Image courtesy of @y_que_trading_post
STAY
Los Feliz Lodge
A homey experience with the benefits of a hotel stay, this cozy, brightly painted mix of villas offers four detached casitas or two larger vista villas in walking distance to everything. Each is fully contained with kitchen/bath alongside eco-conscious interior designs. Rooms start at $165; Book HERE.
Your own casita in 'Rancho Los Feliz'. Image courtesy of @losfelizlodge
Hotel Covell
With five themed apartment-style suites, the luxurious Hotel Covell sits upstairs from one of Los Feliz’ favorite drinking spots – Covell Wine Bar. Expect exceptionally stylish interiors and clientelle, luxury bedding and Malin + Goetz amenities. With the wine bar downstairs and the option to stay short or long term, this place could become habitual—addicts be warned. Rooms start at $245; Book HERE.
There's a wine bar in my living room. Image courtesy of @hotelcovell
The Villa Sophia
The former home of Frankenstein director James Whale, this epic 1927 Mediterranean estate was voted by LA Weekly as ‘Best Place to Pretend You’re a Celebrity for a Day’. The guest house gets you exclusive use of the large emerald-tiled swimming pool, hot tub and 500 sq. feet of patio. Not to mention those views across LA. Rates start at $395 per night; Book HERE
Best place to practice your paparazzi pose. Image courtesy of @thevillasophia
AirBnB: Your Bro's Groovy 1978 Surf Camper
Smack in the middle of Los Feliz village is, believe or not, a perfectly restored 70s surf camper filled with groovy vintage accents, nestled in a surf camp backyard complete with fake grass, hammocks and surfboards. Accommodates two with kitchen, bathroom, heating and air conditioning. Book HERE
Surf’s up on the Eastside! Image courtesy of @airbnb
Belinda Gosbee is an Aussie writer, actress, coffee snob and long time Los Felician. She believed that one should ‘love thy neighbor’ until her own neighbor, mountain lion P-22, broke into the zoo and ate her furry little countryman. Things just got personal. Follow her jaunts on twitter @belindagosbee or instagram @gos22
Header Image courtesy of Belinda Gosbee
